Season's Greetings

Our blog has been sadly neglected in 2009, but I have every intention of resurrecting a regular posting schedule in 2010, once we have returned to Barcelona from Germany.

 In the meantime, Season's Greetings to all and here's an awesome 2010!

2009 Red Bull Air Race in Barcelona

The Red Bull Air Race hit Barcelona 2 weekends ago, and the airspace over the beaches and sea was filled with buzzing little planes and pursuing helicopters as the pilots tested their planes and practised on the course.

Held in conjunction with the Air Race was the 2009 Festa al Cel - Air Festival - which treated us to lots of different aerial displays by numerous interesting aircraft.  It was also the 90th anniversary celebration of the first commercial flight into Barcelona which originated in Toulouse, France.

We had read that the last Barcelona Red Bull Air Race leg in 2006 had attracted 1.3 million people to the beachfront, and certainly the archived photos on the Red Bull website attested to that.

Although the air-race part of the calendar wasn't due to start until 3:30pm on Saturday 3rd Oct which was qualifying day, J and I prepared our food and drinks and set out early, determined to be in the front row on the beach.  We arrived just before 11am and staked out our bit of sand with our beach mats and towels.

We were fortunate to have arrived when we did, because it didn't take long for the beach to fill.  We were then treated to humanity at its finest, as one group of people after another made their way to the front of the beach, prepared to plonk themselves down in the prime positions in front of everyone else who had been waiting there for at least 2 hours longer.  Thankfully, they were either removed by the excellent security personnel or shouted at by the crowds and made to retreat.  It left a lot of people shaking their heads in bemusement and exasperation; incredulous at how stupid, selfish and rude some people can be.

Part of the crowd at qualifying

At mid-day, the airshow started with a few excellent parachute jumps from Spanish airforce and civilian teams, all landing on the beach about 30m away from where we were seated.  They even had a couple of guys in flying squirrel suits jump out of a helicopter and glide across the sky before deploying their 'chutes.

I was a little disappointed with the altitude and distance that most of the aircraft flew at during the airshow.  Flying too far off the beach and too high meant that good photos were hard to get, and an overhead sun in the 1 o'clock position meant that lighting was at its possible worst. I've been at airshows where the planes have thundered in, seemingly within touching distance which certainly adds extra excitement and thrills to the aerobatics displays and fly-bys.

Next up were vintage and classic aircraft.  With Airbus just over the border in Perpignan, the EADS Historic Flight Museum flew in all sorts of aircraft.  EADS (parent company of Airbus) has an excellent History of Aviation on their website.  Although clumsy to navigate, it's worth it if you're an aviation buff.  The Historic Flight Museum holds some of the finest examples of airworthy classic and vintage aircraft, with special emphasis on maintaining a working catalogue of Willy Messerschmidt's planes.

The first to fly in had me stumped - I had no idea what type of aircraft it was, and listening to the Català commentary didn't enlighten me at all.  It took a lot of website trawling to discover that it was a Spanish-built assault/trainer - a Hispano Aviación HA-220 Super Saeta, built in the 50s and 60s (with help from one Willy Messerschmidt) and operated predominantly by the Spanish and Egyptian airforces.  Little wonder that I hadn't come across it before!

Hispano Aviación HA-220 Super Saeta

Next into the beachside arena was a bevy of civilian and military workhorses - the first 3 doing duty in both modes.  First up was the Douglas DC-3 - my most favourite aircraft of all time.  My maiden flight was in one of these operated by Fiji Airways.  This one was decked out in old Air France Livery and she was beautiful.

Douglas DC-3 in early Air France livery

The DC-3 was followed by a Junkers Ju 52 (a.k.a. Casa C-352L), an Antonov An-2, a Harvard AT-6D and a Chance Vought F4U Corsair.  

German Junkers Ju 52

 

 Russian Antonov An-2 (Hungarian registered)

 

AT-6D Harvard

Chance Vought F4U Corsair

Breitling received a lot of attention at this show, mainly because of their sponsorship of the Red Bull series and with their investment into the Breitling Jet Team.  Stationed in Dijon, France, this is the only jet aerobatic team (flying seven Czech-built L-39 C Albatros aircraft) in the world that is flown by civilians.  Their tight formations were impressive, but again, and perhaps governed by local safety constraints, they flew just that much too far away to have a real heart-stopping impact on the beachfront crowds.

 360° En Canard manoevre

 

Avenger Formation 

 

Percussion Manoevre
 

The Spanish Airforce have 2 precision aerobatics teams. Patrulla Águila is their jet team, and Patrulla Aspa is the helicopter formation team.  Flying their Eurocopter EC-120 Colibrí helicopters, they put them through an impressive range of formations.

Flying into the arena in formation 

Tio Vivo manoevre
 

Dos contra Uno manoevre 

Cruce a Dos manoevre
 

A couple of aerobatic displays in planes similar to those flown in the Red Bull races followed, and by now, we along with a lot of others in the crowd were hot, starting to get sunburned, and just waiting for the main event to start.

Coming out of a corkscrew 

Red and Blue symmetry 

Breitling also have a beautiful DC-3 and she was the last plane to fly over and show her shape and colours to the crowds.

The sexiest wingspan silhouette in my opinion!
 

It was then time for the Red Bull pilots to thrill us.  15 pilots have been battling all season, and the last race was to be decided in Barcelona.  

The championship race was also close, and there were 2 pilots with a chance to win it all.  Paul Bonhomme (on 55 points) from the UK has been racing in the series since 2005 without a championship win.  In both 2007 and 2008, he finished an agonising 2nd, and in 2009 he came to Barcelona only a few points ahead of defending champion, Austrian Hannes Arch (on 51 points).  Arch joined the series as a rookie in 2007, and the following year, he won the event.  That was pretty unheard of, as up until then, rookie pilots had generally needed at least 2 seasons to settle in before perhaps even gaining a podium finish in a couple of races.

Arch flew first, and at the 3rd gate, he hit a pylon as the next image will show.  That put him out of contention for 1st place, and at the end of the first round he was in 13th. 

Hannes Arch hits a pylon during his first qualifying round 

Round 2 saw Arch fly beautifully and he grabbed 1st place with a flawless and very fast penalty-free round.  With the win, he also gained an extra point which put him within 3 points of Bonhomme.

Bonhomme's second round was over when he hit a pylon on a relatively easy gate, and he finished in 4th behind Frenchman Nicolas Ivanoff in 2nd and Australian rookie Matt Hall in 3rd.

Nicolas Ivanoff finishes 2nd in qualifying
 

Australian rookie Matt Hall flying into 3rd in the qualifiers

 

Paul Bonhomme knifes through the quadro on his way to qualifying 4th

By now, it was past 6pm.  We were tired and a little red from the sun, and our posteriors and backs were telling us that we had been sitting on hard sand for the better part of the last 7 hours.  We headed for home with thoughts going through our heads that we would have to do this all again tomorrow - and arrive even earlier to secure a good vantage point.

Sunday morning, and we were not up with the lark.  Still a little burnt out and sunburnt from Saturday, we decided to give the beach a miss, and instead watch the event on TV.  Yes, we're getting old!

In all honesty, the main reason for not going back was so that we didn't have to argue with the stupid, rude people who tried to sit in front of those who had been there for a few hours in order to gain the best position.  We had been threatened by a guy the day before, and then had to watch our backs as he sat behind us with his mates.  I did disarm him in the end, as I took his photo and made sure that he knew that I had it.  But it wasn't a good feeling, and lot of us in the front row were quite angry and exasperated by the selfish behaviour of a few who thought that the world owed them.

So we watched the Final Day on TV, in comfy chairs and close amenities - and vowed that if the race comes back next year, we'll buy grandstand seats!

After elimination rounds, the fastest 4  - Bonhomme, Arch, Nigel Lamb (UK) and Matthias Dolderer (German rookie) - raced for the Barcelona trophy. 

Bonhomme needed to finish 1st, 2nd or 3rd in order to win. The 4 pilots were in a holding pattern and no one was told of the results until after all 4 had flown. Lamb flew first, Dolderer next, followed by Bonhomme and Arch last.  After Bonhomme flew into the #1 position and secured the championship, Arch had still to fly.  Another pylon hit at Gate 3 put paid to his chances, and Bonhomme celebrated his win with an exuberant roar!

You can watch the final 4 on this excellent video:

If the viewer doesn't load, go to the Red Bull Air Race website to view it.

The podium for Barcelona was Bonhomme 1st, Lamb (first podium for 2009) 2nd and rookie Dolderer 3rd.

The 2009 Championship podium was Bonhomme 1st, Arch 2nd and Australian rookie Matt Hall a distant 3rd on points, but an impressive performance in his first year of racing.

Congratulations to British Airways 747 captain Paul Bonhomme.  We hope to see you again next year if the Red Bull comes back to Barcelona!

Running the Berlin Marathon

Seeing the Berlin Marathon being run yesterday for 2009 reminded me of last year's event which I never did get around to blogging about.

When J sets her mind to do something, it's often with a single-minded focus that's to be admired. A few years ago, she had run the Berlin Marathon for the first time, and decided that the 35th event in 2008 was time to do it again.

She and her business partner J-T trained for months before the actual day.  Following a rigid training program given to them by a mutual friend who was into training sportspeople, they set out to complete their daily schedule.  It was great to see them compare notes and times and encouraging each other as the weeks and months went by, and the marathon date drew closer.

In August 2008, J's training received a setback.  Playing in a women's football tournament, she dived onto the deck to head a ball into the goal, and landed on her left hand - breaking the little finger in 2 places.  When she does something, she does it well!

The cast was on for a month

Undeterred, she kept up with the training as best as she could, and in September last year, it was time to put it to the test.

The first thing we had to do was go and pick up their race numbers.   On the Friday evening, we piled into the car and headed out to the Berlin Expo grounds.  I have never seen so many people try to get into one pavilion!  It was a bit shambolic, as there was only one door through which to enter and exit, and we all felt like salmon trying to head upstream!

Trying to get into the hall to collect race numbers and info packs

Once inside, it was a bit more organised.  Sports companies had displays on the ground floor, and on the mezzanine, once up the stairs, it was turn left to collect your number if you were female, and to the right if you were male.

Numbers and info packs collected, we beat a hasty retreat to the car.

On Sunday morning, we were up before the sun and on the metro to the Brandenburg Gate where the marathon was to begin and end.  Meeting J-T and his cousin K, there were small signs of nervousness as strategies were discussed before walking to the start line.

I was to meet J at 2 locations to give her food and drink.  At the first, I missed her, but luckily saw J-T who told me that she was ahead of him.  Diving back onto the train, I headed to our next rendezvous at the 32km mark, where luckily I managed to see her this time.  She was not very amused that we had missed the first stop, but recovered quickly as the food and coca cola quickly brought up her energy levels.

Back at the Brandenburg gate, I first met J who finished ahead of the 2 guys and was feeling pretty pleased with herself - as she should!

Rightly happy, tired and with finisher medals around their necks!

J-T and K came in about 20 mins and 45 mins behind her, and there was time for a quick victory photo and to pick up the time printouts before heading home to hot baths and pasta carbo-loading!

The official paper showing position in the field as well as split distance times

Fervent Catalonian Pride

Elsewhere in the world, the date 9/11 conjures up images of collapsing tall buildings and death. In Catalonia/Catalunya/Cataluña*, 11/9 is La Diada Nacional de Catalonia - the National Day of Catalonia, a public holiday and a memorial to another deadly September 11, almost 3 centuries ago.

In 1714 on this day, the Siege of Barcelona was lost by the home side during the War of the Spanish Succession. The laws and rights to the region held by the Crowns of Catalonia and Aragón were abolished by the Bourbon monarchy, and Catalonia was pulled kicking and screaming to be under Spanish rule. To this day, it's not to everyone's liking! Catalonia uses National Day to commemorate their history and fallen heroes - and to voice their dissent to the powerhouse based in Madrid.

I was excited, as it was to be the first national day that I will experience in this region. With J away in Berlin, I made my way to the Parc de la Ciutadella where the official ceremony was to take place. I was handed a progamme for the event, and at all the gates, there were large maps and the event programme printed on canvas for all to see.

Click on the images to enlarge them

Large maps and the event programme stationed at the gates

If people arrived early enough, (like me!), they scored one of the official programmes

The ceremonial area filled up quickly as seats were grabbed by those who arrived earlier than those who had to stand. Although I could have grabbed a seat, I elected to stand, as I thought that this would give me the freedom to move around and grab photos from different locations. This notion was quickly scotched by the 100 deep crowd that formed behind my position on the barrier located behind the VIP seating, and which effectively fenced me in on all sides. Oh well, I have learned better for next year!

Just after 11:30am, the dignitaries and invited guests took their seats on stage, accompanied by 3 members of Mossos d'Esquadra (English equivalent would be Troopers, although literal translation would be "Squad Lads") who are standing at the rear in their full dress uniform.

VIPs and dignitaries onstage. At the front in the white hat is actress Montserrat Carulla, who compered the event

The Mossos d'Esquadra has a long history beginning in the 1700s. Today, they are a civilian force and have replaced Spain's Policia Nacional and Guardia Civil within Catalonia, as well as assuming full responsibility within Barcelona. (I think that I'll have to do a separate blog post on the Mossos, as it's an interesting story.) The official Mossos d'Esquadra ceremonial troop marched in, and stood under the bare flagpole.

A representation of Mossos D'Esquadra

Their chief received the folded Catalonian flag from the President of the Catalonia Generalitat, José Montilla Aguilera.

The Mossos chief carries the folded flag

The flag (La Senyera) was raised, and managed to flutter a couple of times in the small breeze which came through to cool us as we watched under the hot sun.

La Senyera - the 4 red stripes represent 4 Spanish autonomous communities: Catalonia, Aragón, the Balearic Islands and Valencia

The official ceremony was a mix of songs, dances, poems and readings performed by a variety of artists. Controversially, an Israeli singer, Noa (real name Achinoam Nini) was asked to sing. When she appeared on stage, accompanied by the Arab Orchestra of Barcelona, a large group of pro-Palestine demonstrators stood up, turned their backs to the stage and held up placards and keffiyehs.

The protesters for Palestine with their backs to the stage

They received a very hostile reception from the rest of the crowd who stood to applaud Noa and the Arab Orchestra as they gave a powerful rendition of El Cant dels Ocells (Song of Birds). It appears that artists can find commonality in their craft which bridges any political differences that their countries might have.

Noa accompanied by the Arab Orchestra of Barcelona

The Arab Orchestra left the stage, and Noa, together with her partner and guitarist Gil Dor remained. She first spoke in Catalan and then sang a song, also translated into Catalan called Beautiful that Way - and she did sing it beautifully.

Noa sings in Catalan accompanied by guitarist and partner, Gil Dor

There was a large press contingent to record the proceedings.

A bit of money tied up in that photographic gear - there wasn't a lens under 200mm!

Other artists included guitarist Peret and Llibert Fortuny, a brass ensemble.

Peret at front left

Llibert Fortuny

Once the ceremony was over, I walked across to Arc de Triomp where there was a large family festival area set up in the square between the arch and the Ciutadella Park. There were lots of challenging puzzles and games for the kids to do, live music and stalls set up which were selling Catalonian clothing and flags, as well as a few booths asking people to support the cause for an independent Catalonia - separate from the rest of Spain.

Fiesta at Arc de Triomp

A lot of people and buildings sported La Senyera (the official flag of Catalonia) as well as La Senyera Estelada which is a protest flag calling for Catalonia to be a separate nation. I have assembled a slideshow of some of these photos:

Walking away from the Arc de Triomp, I wandered through the Born neighbourhood and headed for the Santa Maria del Mar cathedral. On the way, I saw many posters promoting events and polls for voting Catalonia to be independent.

Long live the revolution!

On the seaward side of the cathedral lies Fossar de les Moreres - a memorial square which lies atop a burial ground where Siege of Barcelona defenders are buried. There were lots of floral wreaths laid at the base of the monument, whose steel arch bears an eternal flame burning at the top.

The memorial at Fossar de les Moreres, and on the wall behind it is inscribed a poem (titled Fossar de les Moreres) by Frederic Soler

The inscription on the arch is dedicated to those who fell in the battle.

"To those who died defending the rights and constitutions of Catalonia in the Siege of Barcelona 1713-1714"

At Plaça de Sant Jaume is the Palau de la Generalitat which is the seat of the Catalan presidency and government.

Palau de la Generalitat

I had obviously missed a demonstration outside the building, as there was a crowd of people just dispersing, but it appeared as if everything had been peaceful. The door to the palace was heavily guarded with members of the Mossos d'Esquadra - not in ceremonial dress, but dressed for trouble. I have no doubt that these guys had formidable back-up in the numerous squad vans which were parked in the alleyways. These guys take no prisoners!

The Mossos - the Lads!

By now I had been out and about for almost 7 hours. My feet were aching, as well as my neck from the weight of my camera. I walked back to the nearest metro station to catch the train home, pausing to chuckle at the pigeons resting anywhere that they could on the old Roman city walls and to gaze at the Pastis de la Diada (Cakes of the Day) in a bakery window.

Pigeons nestle in the old city wall - it's worth clicking on the photo to see how many there are!

Pastis de la Diada - adorned with the Catalonian flag

I was pretty happy with my first National Catalonia Day. Next year, I want to go to some of the ceremonial places that I didn't get to this year.


*For my sake, as well as for everyone else who reads this blog, I'm now only going to refer to this region as Catalonia which is the Catalan name for it.